Découvrez l'Albanie

Yes. In a country smaller than Belgium you can walk a Greek and Roman city at Butrint, sleep in the Ottoman stone towns of Berat and Gjirokastër, climb Skanderbeg's castle at Krujë and hear a singing tradition UNESCO lists as heritage of humanity. Most of it is a few hours' drive from Tirana.

Albania has 4 World Heritage Sites: Butrint (1992), Historic centres of Berat and Gjirokastër (2005), Ohrid region, natural and cultural (2019), Ancient beech forests (2017). It also has 5 traditions on UNESCO's intangible heritage lists, including Albanian folk iso-polyphony and Xhubleta.

Krujë (Skanderbeg's castle and the old bazaar) and Durrës (a Roman amphitheatre) are both under an hour away. Berat, Apollonia and Shkodër with Rozafa castle are comfortable day trips. Gjirokastër, Butrint and Korçë are best with a night on the way.

Not your own. Buses reach the main towns but rarely the castles, ruins and viewpoints themselves, and mountain roads are hard work in a rental. A private driver takes you door to door and waits at every stop. Tour Alb runs ready-made trips from Tirana and a trip builder for your own route.

April to June and September to October: warm, green and quieter than the coast in August. Highland places such as Theth are best from late May to October, when the mountain road is open.

Albania is generally regarded as a safe, welcoming country for visitors, and hospitality (besa, keeping your word to a guest) is part of the culture. The main practical risk is the roads: steep, narrow and often unsigned in the mountains, which is why many visitors choose a local driver.