Story V · Petku

The Cloth

The xhubleta, the qeleshe, and 200-odd regional costumes.

A group of upper-class Albanians. Original caption: An illustration dating from the second half of the 19th century depics a grop of upper class Albaians in typical dress.
Photo: Firmin Didot, Public domain, Wikimedia Commons

The Xhubleta is a bell-shaped, undulating skirt built from strips of black felt and dense coloured embroidery, worn by women of the northern highlands. Researchers connect elements of its form to Bronze Age depictions, which would make it among the oldest continuously made garment forms in Europe.

UNESCO placed it on the Urgent Safeguarding List in 2022, the list for heritage that is actively dying. Very few master-makers remain.

Beyond it: the white felt qeleshe cap, the fustanella, the xhamadan, and roughly two hundred distinct regional costumes. Dress is one of the densest cultural records the country has, marital status, region, village and wealth were all legible in the stitching before anyone wrote them down.

Research by ARBËR, the Living Museum of Albania. Published facts are verified or presented as open debate.

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