moderateTheth · viewpointBlue Eye of Theth
Syri i Kaltër i Thethit
18 km↑ 500 m7–8 h
Albania's best-known mountain pool, fed by snowmelt and set deep in the Accursed Mountains, with views across the national park on the way in.
Best: May to October
Shkodër · 2 days · private
€52947,597 L for the car · up to 4 people
−10% cash · €476 for the car
Photo: Adam Jones from Kelowna, BC, Canada, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Why go
Two days, one private car. Rozafa Castle and Shkodër on the way up, a night in Theth under the Accursed Mountains, then the Leqet e Hotit switchbacks to Vermosh, Albania's northernmost village.
Day one climbs from Shkodër up the SH21 over the Thore Pass (Qafa e Thorës), now fully paved, into Theth, the stone village whose lock-in tower (Kulla e Ngujimit) sheltered men under blood feud.
Day two runs back down to Koplik and up the SH20 to Vermosh. The Leqet e Hotit is a balcony road of hairpins hung over the valley; Vermosh itself is river meadows and guesthouses at the very top of the country.
On the ground
In pictures
The stone church of Theth under the Accursed Mountains
Theth church with the peaks behind
The green valley floor at Vermosh
The footbridge over the river at Vermosh
Rozafa castle above Shkodër
Swipe for more. Photographs of the places on this route, under Creative Commons licences. Full credits.
Itinerary
Day 107:00
Leave Tirana early and head north, about 2 hours.
Day 1morning
Panoramic views over the lake and rivers, then a quick coffee on Shkodër's pedestrian boulevard.
Day 12.5-3 hrs
The fully paved road over the Thore Pass (Qafa e Thorës), breathtaking views all the way.
Day 1afternoon
Check in to your guesthouse, walk the 45-minute trail to the Grunas Waterfall, see Theth Church and the Lock-in Tower (Kulla e Ngujimit).
Day 1night
A traditional dinner and a night in a local guesthouse.
Day 22.5 hrs
Leave right after breakfast, back down the SH21 to Koplik for the road to Vermosh.
Day 22 hrs
The SH20 balcony road, sharp switchbacks hung over the valley, to Albania's northernmost village.
Day 2midday
Pristine nature, a walk along the Vermosh River and a hearty meal at a local guesthouse.
Day 24.5-5 hrs
Down the SH20 to Koplik, past Shkodër and south on the highway, home late in the evening.
The price
Your price
1 person · 1 car
€52947,597 L
The whole trip. That is the card price.
−10% cash · €476if you pay the driver in cash on the day
How many of you?
Where do we start?
Door to door from your hotel or address in Tirana, included
How it adds up
Or pay the whole thing by card now. Free to cancel up to 24 hours before.
Included
Not included
Best months: May to October (mountain passes)
On foot
Your driver waits while you walk. Distance, climb and season for each, from public sources.
moderateTheth · viewpointSyri i Kaltër i Thethit
18 km↑ 500 m7–8 h
Albania's best-known mountain pool, fed by snowmelt and set deep in the Accursed Mountains, with views across the national park on the way in.
Best: May to October
easyTheth · waterfallUjëvara e Grunasit
5 km↑ 200 m1–2 h
A short, rewarding walk through beech and pine forest to a spectacular cascade in a narrow canyon, with a cool pool to swim in below.
Best: May to October
easyTheth · heritage walkKulla e Ngujimit
2.5 km↑ 30 m1–1.5 h
A short look at a living piece of the Kanun of Lekë Dukagjini, the traditional code under which this tower sheltered men from blood revenge.
Best: May to October
hardTheth to Valbona · hikeQafa e Valbonës
15 km one way↑ 1125 m6–9 h
One of the Balkans' classic high passes, linking two dramatic valleys through beech forest and wild alpine meadow.
Best: June to September
moderateKelmend · hikeRuga Vermosh–Lëpushë
14 km one way↑ 400 m6–7 h
A remote trek through traditional Kelmend villages in the Accursed Mountains, linking two isolated settlements with wide alpine views.
Best: June to September
Still deciding?
Get Shkodër · Theth · Vermosh, the price and a booking link in your inbox, so it's there when you plan the rest of Albania.
Questions
Pay the driver in cash on the day and save 10% on the listed price. Or pay the whole thing by card online, or leave a card deposit to hold the car and settle the rest on the day. Free to cancel up to 24 hours before.
€450 for the car and the two days, for up to four people. Card or cash, the same price either way.
No. Guests book their own night in Theth, we can suggest guesthouses and book one on your behalf.
No. The Grunas Waterfall walk is about 45 minutes and optional. Everything else is reached by car.
Nearby in spirit
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10% off when you pay the driver in cash. Or pay by card online; a deposit holds your date.
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